Which anti-aging cream really works?
Posted on Fri, Oct 21, 2011
By Marné CarMicha Walsh, M.S., P-AC
I’ve heard this request many times from patients wanting to look younger instantly with the use of a “magic cream” that they can apply at home. I think it is important to first look at the cause of skin aging. We know that aging skin is multi-factorial, involving both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic factors are the genetic program of our cells and the way that they naturally age. As we age, it is natural for collagen and elastin to break down. Unfortunately, our body does not automatically regenerate the lost collagen unless there is skin trauma. Extrinsic factors are environmental effects like tobacco, photo-aging (sun radiation), chemicals (air pollution or exposure), diet, etc.
You have control over extrinsic factors
We cannot change our genetics, therefore, most topical treatments focus on protecting us from the extrinsic factors. We know that tobacco smoking and sun exposure are the 2 most powerful skin aging accelerators. As a result, the cosmeceutical industry has expanded their product lines to include all variations of sunscreen, anti-aging creams and antioxidants—some effective, some not. Physician offices are in a unique position to choose effective products as we have the knowledge base to evaluate products, review the medical studies and access national conferences to discuss the products and ingredients with one another.
Is sunscreen an anti-aging cream?
I often half-joke with my patients that the best anti-aging cream is zinc sunscreen applied liberally and daily as well as sun avoidance. Here in Hawaii, it is difficult to avoid the sun. We need to cover up and reapply sunscreen more often as well as avoid the sun when possible. That means standing in the shade when available, limiting outdoor activities during the hours of 10am-2pm (when the sun’s UV radiation is at its strongest), wearing sun protective clothing such as UPF 50 long sleeve shirts and hats, as well as generous reapplication of sunscreen every 2 hours (more often if sweating or in the water).
How much sunscreen we apply is just as important as how often. A shot glass size amount is recommended to cover the body of an average size person for one application. Wearing a long sleeve UPF 50 shirt would reduce the amount of sunscreen needed to cover the body by 40-50%! As for the face, don’t depend on that SPF 15 found in your moisturizer. Choose one that has at least 5% zinc oxide. If you use a moisturizer, apply it first, followed by your sunscreen. If you have oily skin, use an oil-free zinc and titanium formulation. Some sunscreens are tinted to balance the red and give light coverage. No matter which one you choose, make sure to allow time for the sunscreen to dry on your skin before applying make-up.
Protect your skin from free-radicals…
Although sunscreens such as zinc and titanium can reflect a good portion of the damaging UVradiation that ages our skin, some radiation still trickles through. This amount increases with time as the sunscreen weakens or rubs off. Topical antioxidants can protect the live skin cells from free radical accumulation in the skin as well as protect the skin from sunburn. Free radicals from both the sun and environment accumulate in our skin cells and alter the DNA. This results in accelerated breakdown of collagen and elastin fibers, the backbone of firm skin. Vitamin C and E, coffee berry, ferulic acid, plant phloretins, and green tea are some of the most widely used and studied antioxidants on the market today.
I recommend applying a combination of at least two or three antioxidants every morning directly on clean skin. Don’t worry, that doesn’t mean you will have 3 different bottles. Antioxidants are usually formulated with several different components in the same bottle. Some antioxidants, such as Vitamin C, can offer long lasting protection even in the water.
Look for part 2 of this blog post where I will discuss specific wrinkle cream ingredients and formulations such as Tretinoin (Retin-A), Renova, Retissa, Peptides, and Human Growth Factors.
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